Yes — car shipping is safe for the vehicle. Damage claims are rare, every legitimate carrier is federally required to hold at least $100,000 in cargo insurance, and open carriers are how dealers move new cars across the country every day. The risk that deserves your attention isn’t the truck. It’s the company you book with: the FMCSA reports a significant rise in complaints about deceptive practices in auto transport, from bait-and-switch pricing to deposit theft. Physical risk is small and insured. Booking risk is real and avoidable.

So the honest answer to “is car shipping safe?” is two answers. Here’s each one, with what you control.

Risk 1: Will My Car Get Damaged?

Unlikely. Think about what an open carrier is: the same equipment that delivered your car to the dealership when it was new, driven by an operator whose business depends on clean deliveries. Your car is strapped to a purpose-built trailer, not driven — it arrives with no added miles, no road-trip wear, and no overnight parking in motel lots.

The damage that does happen falls into a few buckets:

For vehicles where cosmetic exposure is unacceptable — collector cars, exotics, show-condition paint — enclosed transport removes the road-exposure category for 40–60% more than open rates. For everything else, open is the rational choice, not the risky one.

Risk 2: Will the Company Do What It Promised?

This is where the industry earns its complaints. The most common failure patterns, in order of how often customers report them:

Notice what’s on that list: contracts, communication, and licensing. Not crashes. The failure mode of car shipping is almost never a wrecked car — it’s a broken promise. And the schemes cluster where the volume is: California, Florida, Texas, New York, and New Jersey see the most complaints, because that’s where the most cars move. Our car shipping scams guide documents each of these schemes and the red flags for every one.

How to Control Both Risks

Risk What controls it
Transit damage Verified cargo insurance; photos + Bill of Lading at pickup; inspection at delivery
Bait-and-switch pricing Locked price in writing before any deposit; skip quotes 30%+ below the pack
Deposit theft Credit card only — never wire, Zelle, or cash apps
Unlicensed carrier Free FMCSA lookup of the MC number before loading
Company goes dark Book with a company that answers its phone before you’re a customer

The 5-Minute Safety Check Before You Book

  1. Look up the company on FMCSA.gov. Active authority, matching name, insurance on file. Allied is an FMCSA-licensed and bonded broker — verify us the same way.
  2. Compare 3–5 quotes and throw out the outlier. A price far below the others isn’t a bargain; it’s a setup.
  3. Get the total price in writing before paying anything, and ask whether the deposit is refundable if no carrier is assigned.
  4. Ask who will physically move the car. You’re entitled to the carrier’s name, MC number, and insurance details at assignment. Our insurance guide shows how to read a Certificate of Insurance.
  5. Pay by credit card. Chargeback rights are your last line of defense.

Is Shipping Safer Than Driving It Yourself?

Worth asking, since driving is the alternative. A cross-country drive puts 2,500+ miles on your odometer, two or three nights in motel parking lots, and you behind the wheel for 40 hours — with your own fatigue as the risk factor. Shipping puts zero miles on the car, keeps it strapped to a trailer instead of parked overnight in unfamiliar lots, and hands the driving to someone whose full-time job is hauling vehicles on that route. For a long move, the shipped car typically arrives in better shape than the driven one, because nothing happened to it at all.

The trade-off isn’t safety — it’s control and timing. Driving gets the car there on your schedule. Shipping asks you to work in windows: a pickup window, a transit range, a delivery call the day before. If windows work for your move, the car is better off riding than being driven.

What Safe Shipping Looks Like at Pickup and Delivery

The paperwork is your safety equipment. At pickup, the driver documents your car’s condition on the Bill of Lading; walk the car with them and check the report against your own date-stamped photos. At delivery, inspect in daylight before signing. If there’s new damage, note it on the BOL and photograph it first — then the carrier’s cargo insurance handles it, with a federally protected claim window of at least 9 months. Damage with documentation is a process. Damage without documentation is an argument you lose.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often do cars get damaged in shipping?

Rarely. Damage claims are the exception, not the pattern — open carriers are the same equipment dealers use to move new inventory every day, and carriers are federally required to hold cargo insurance for the cases where something does go wrong.

Is open transport safe, or do I need enclosed?

Open transport is safe for daily drivers — the exposure is comparable to highway driving. Enclosed transport makes sense for collector cars, exotics, and vehicles where any cosmetic exposure is unacceptable, at 40–60% above open rates.

Is it safe to give a car shipping company a deposit?

Yes, with two conditions: pay by credit card so you can charge back if the company vanishes, and confirm in writing what happens to the deposit if no carrier is assigned. Never pay by wire transfer or cash app.

Can I trust a car shipping broker?

A licensed broker with a verifiable FMCSA record and a written locked price, yes. The broker model itself isn’t the problem — unvetted load-board assignment is. Ask any broker who is moving your car and how they screen carriers.

What’s the biggest risk in shipping a car?

Booking on price alone. Nearly every horror story in this industry starts with a quote that was too good to be true, followed by a price jump, a delay, or a disappearing company.

Get Your Quote

Get a firm, written price from a broker you can look up on FMCSA.gov — with a carrier whose authority and cargo insurance we verify before your car is loaded. Our step-by-step guide shows the whole process.

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Or call us at (800) 997-4181. No commitment to book.

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